2005 C230 Kompressor Rough Rider

Discussion in 'C-Class' started by Jim12327, Aug 20, 2016.

  1. Jim12327

    Jim12327 New Member

    I have a 2005 C230 Kompressor coupe with about 135,000 miles on it. This is the first time I have had any problems with the car. The car doesn't overheat, no leaks anywhere and in good shape. My problems started when the car wouldn't accelerate on the highway and the check engine light was on all the time. A shop that I trust said it is probably the mass air flow sensor. So I replaced the mass air flow sensor and both O2 sensors but the car still did not run very well (limp mode). I took it to the shop and they said the codes read the catalytic converter had to be replaced. Logic says that if the O2 sensors were bad, sending false data to the computer and/or the MAF sensor was bad, then fuel could have trashed the catalytic converter. So I replaced the catalytic converter. The battery happened to go bad, this was the original battery, so I put a new battery in it too. I saved a lot of money by doing all the work myself but this is getting to be an expensive project and I need to see it through.

    The check engine light is not on any longer. I bought a code reader and connected it. I saw the error codes from before I started the work. Before I started the car, I cleared the codes and wanted to start from scratch. It now says there are "no error codes found". The motor starts up fine and idles ok, but when I put it in gear and start down the road it is like there is little power. I take it out on the road and the car still acts like it doesn't want to move just like before I replaced the parts. My code reader is capable of displaying real time data, trending PID, saving and printing. So I left my code reader connected as I was driving. A lot of data and still no error codes come up, but I don't know how to decipher the information on the screen as the car is running. Except for the obvious readings like RPM, speed, and various temperatures, I really don't know what I am looking at but I saved it and ran PID trends. I still don't know what it means. I need help but I don't want to keep depositing $1000 into this car.
  2. Wow you did quite a bit of work. You have replaced all the key parts that cause the symptoms that you describe.

    If the car runs rough it may throw a fault code eventually if you were to drive.

    Personally I would do a compression test. Its not hard but you need a gauge which you can get on eBay or Amazon for around $30.

    The other possibility is that the new air mass sensor is not working properly. I know you replaceed it but it may still be the problem.

    Let us know what you find out. Good luck!
  3. I would also run a carbon deposit remover like techron or seafoam. These car are know to build a lot of carbon around the intake vales which causes them to loose compression if it gets too bad.
  4. Jim12327

    Jim12327 New Member

    Wouldn't any issues out of the norm show up as an emission error? I wish I know how to interpret the run data, thinking that might point me in the right direction where to look or what to check. Any ideas on where I might get normal run/idle parameters for % air, fuel, temps...?
  5. Jim12327

    Jim12327 New Member

    Thank you for your thoughts. I will consider it.
  6. I can't remember of the top of my head what those parameter values should be. If they were out of range sooner or later you would end up with a check engine light.
  7. Jim12327

    Jim12327 New Member

    I just completed a compression check and all cylinders seemed to be fine; 1=120 psi, 2=122 psi, 3=120 psi, 4=120 psi. I would almost wonder if there was something wrong with the gauge except for the one 2 psi difference. I did notice the well on 1 & 2 had oil up to the top of the spark plug. I think this probably came from me previously adding oil at some point rather than a seal leaking, but I think this could have been an issue anyway.
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2016
  8. Jim12327

    Jim12327 New Member

    I just found the problem of my C230. It turns out the brake booster vacuum hose is bad. Vacuum was being robbed by the bad hose.
  9. engineer

    engineer Member

    That's great that you figured it out. At least that was a cheap fix besides all the headaches you had to deal with.

    Thanks for the update by the way.
  10. ncp3708

    ncp3708 New Member

    Hi, sorry to revive the old thread but which hose was bad? Any chance you took a picture or have a part number still?? Any information would be much appreciated!

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